1971 Challenger R/T
 

I am in the process of potentially acquiring a '71 Challenger R/T VIN# JS23.... so it is in fact a legit R/T. I have looked the vehicle over once. Breifly inspecting the interior and the exterior. The interior is as original as it appears but I am not 100% sure on that. The exterior still has the R/T emblems attatchad and is in Go Mango the original paint. There are of course blemishes mainly a cracked paint bubble near the right front hood pin and bubbleing near the right rear window on the qt panel. I have not yet looked at the undercariage or the floor boards but from looks it seems to be a solid car. MY MAIN CONCERN is price and engine. the vin code tells me that this vehicle should have had the 383 in it originally. The hood scoop proudly displays 440 Magnum and the engine is indeed a 440, not sure if it is the six-pack or a magnum heck im not sure to be frank what the difference of those two are anyway. I have been told that the owner beleives that the original 727 tranny is in it, but that has not yet been verified.


SO TO THE QUESTIONS?

1. where to I find the engine code that would match or not match the cars vin?
2. Same with the tranny?
3. The price on the car is $5,000.00 is this worth it even without matching numbers on engine and tranny?

I will be going to look at the car again tomorrow and have some pics diplayed for you all to look at..

RE: 1971 Challenger R/T
 

Okay Rescue One...Go and get us these few things...VIN and Fendertag. As far as the originality, remember these cars were from the seventies, and have had thirty five years of well, being around thirty five years. Someone during the eighties musclecar craze could have easily replaced the emblems. If it is a 440, great. I have had people swear up and down the 383 is a great motor, and when I was wanting to do a B-R/B engine swap in my '58 coronet, I originally had a 383 in my crosshairs, but got my 440 instead.
To answer your questions...In 1971, you could not get a 440 magnum, only the six pack. So that's out as far as it being original.
-To find the partial vin, there is going to be a flat area at the front of the block, close to the distributor. I believe that the partial will also be cast into the side of the block on the Drivers (?) side. As far as the 727, again it will have the partial (last six digits of the vin) stamped into a raised boss (flat area) on the side of the tranny, close to the shift linkage.
-Five grand? Nah man, just give me the five grand and I will save you all the troubles you will have to endure with this car:D

An original Six pack car will have all the same accounterments as it's 426 sibling. (E87 fender tag code, "V" in the fifth character on the vin...)
-K Frame with the skid plate
-3/8" Fuel lines
-Torque Boxes in front of the rear springs!!!!
-NO AIR CONDITIONING. EVER.
-Extra Half Leaf on the passenger's side rear spring
-Floor reinforcement over pinoin snubber area.

I can't think of anything else right now, but I know I am missing a few things.

Later
Kelly

RE: 1971 Challenger R/T
 

Question 1 - By engine code I assume you mean a partial VIN number like "1B123456". The stamping will be on a machined pad on the passenger side of the engine, right above the oil pan... nearer the forward end of the block. The stamping MAY also appear on the top of the block along the mating surface to the "bell housing" of the automatic transmission... see attached photos.

Question 2 - Also on a machined pad, I believe on the passenger side (not certain).

Question 3 - Based on your description, the car is a bargain... just make sure it does not have any major title issues! The partial VIN should also be stamped on the radiator core support and upper cowl area near the cowl seal... both stampings should be on the driver's side. Also check the door jam decal on the driver's door, the data plate (fender tag), and of course the VIN plate for signs of damage or alteration. Don't get too concerned if the door decal is missing or painted over, also the radiator core support could have been replaced if the car was ever wrecked in the front. At the price you mentioned ($5000), not having the original engine or transmission should not be a show stopper...

XS

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RE: 1971 Challenger R/T
 

Pictures of Data Plate (Fender Tag), door decal, radiator core support stamping, and cowl stamping on a 1971 Challenger R/T...

XS

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RE: 1971 Challenger R/T
 

Some possible bad news? I am not all that knowledgable when it comes to car restoration this will be my first project. I was able to ask the owner today some of the burning questions I had. I was under the impesion that the JS23 vin start indicated an R/T, I now beleive this to be a cloned R/T, not a big deal because my goal is to restore an e-body mopar.

The tranny has been converted to reverse shift so as he told me may need to be rebuilt to accomodate the slap stick shifting.

The floor boards are not as solid as I was told they were to begin with I fond some holes today in the daylight and they may need to be patched or replaced, not sure how big of a job that is?

The fuel tank needs replaced as well as all fuel lines, The car also needs a new carberator and it should turn over "owners statement". He as an old Predator carb that he put on so that he could turn the engine over now and again but has been afraid to do so with the gas tank rusting through.

RE: 1971 Challenger R/T
 

Some possible bad news? I am not all that knowledgable when it comes to car restoration this will be my first project. I was able to ask the owner today some of the burning questions I had. I was under the impesion that the JS23 vin start indicated an R/T, I now beleive this to be a cloned R/T, not a big deal because my goal is to restore an e-body mopar.

The tranny has been converted to reverse shift so as he told me may need to be rebuilt to accomodate the slap stick shifting.

The floor boards are not as solid as I was told they were to begin with I fond some holes today in the daylight and they may need to be patched or replaced, not sure how big of a job that is?

The fuel tank needs replaced as well as all fuel lines, The car also needs a new carberator and it should turn over "owners statement". He as an old Predator carb that he put on so that he could turn the engine over now and again but has been afraid to do so with the gas tank rusting through.

RE: 1971 Challenger R/T
 

Sorry about the double post was trying to post some pics..

RE: 1971 Challenger R/T
 

Wow Andrew...What a great find! I am sure that replacing floorboards are a given for that...Trivia time, Kids! Does anybody know why our beloved Chryslers rusted out so fast? Back in the day, when this Red '71 (yes, it is a legit R/T Andrew!) made its transition from a stack of sheetmetal to a body unit, it was dipped by Chrysler SEVEN times in various chromate, acid wash and primer processes to protect the undercarraige. The pools that the bodies were dipped in to were only about 22" or so inches deep. Andrew, when you pull that dash off, you will see a definite line when the dipping process stopped and the overspray began about halfway up the firewall.
Anyway, back to the R/Ts journey to an assembled car. While the Chally was dipped in these wash processes, every other step was a vat of water. So imagine taking a bare piece of metal, dipping it in acid, then zinc, then primer and so on, with water in between...You got RUST! All those wierd ribs in the floorpan weren't stamped there because the engineers thought they were cool, they were there to aid in drainage (notice the rubber plug?).
As far as the reverse-manual valve body? That's an easy fix. Drag racers like the kit, because the shift arrangement went PRN12D as opposed to the PRND12 that we are used to. My advice? Yank the 727, hack out the tranny hump, get a T56, call year one, and get a manual tranny floor hump. Problem solved!
The floorpans can be cut out at the spotwelds, and retacked in if rust is that big a problem.
I can't think of the company that makes repro stainless lines, I want to say its Fine Lines, inc. The fuel tank is two 9/16' castle nuts on J-hook bolts that hold the tank straps. Drain the tank, and either douse the J-hooks with WD40, or take a propane torch and torch the hooks to dissolve the corrosion. There will be either one or two spring clamps on the fuel lines, a lead for the sender, and its out. If you cut the tank apart, you might find some funny stuff crayoned on the inside of the tank!

Later
Kelly

RE: 1971 Challenger R/T
 

So my bad news isn't so bad after all. What a releif That kinda put a huge damper on my Monday as if that needed help.



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RE: 1971 Challenger R/T
 

That car sounds like a steal for that money. A legit R/T is unheard of for 5K these days, especially if it's complete. Most that are around for that price are rusted basket cases missing numerous components, including drivetrain. Looks pretty straight & solid from the pics... the floors aren't a big deal anymore; Autobody Specialties has repros for them.