MoparGuy

Kenmer, you're not really wrong. The purpose of the clay bar is to remove contaminants from the paint and it really is good at that. But if your car is new or you really keep up with the washing and waxing then you won't have much in the way of contaminants and won't see much difference. Wheels are a different story with the brake dust and all. Just remember to never use one without the surface being lubricated. I spray a little instant detail, then rub with the clay bar and wipe dry.

Take a car with a lousy finish that hasn't been kept up and the clay bar makes a huge difference. Haven't used it on my Challenger yet though. Surface feels smooth as silk. Lots of orange peel though, which obviously the clay bar won't help.

Jeremiah 29:11

Okay, here is my 2 cents. Clay bars are going to work on paint that is older. These Challenger cars at just too new. Depending on the environmental abuse you give your car, you should probably use a clay bar if your car is around 3 years old or so. My wife's 2002 F150 Supercrew finally needed it after 6 years but we always keep it in the garage.
I did the clay bar procedure which took all of the environemental crude which you can't wash off and you can feel how smooth the paint is by running your hand across it.
If you run you hand across your hood after washing it and it still feels gritty then you need to use a clay bar. If not, then don't waste your $20.00.

I have been a big fan of NXT polymer wax for the last several years after Meguiar's quite making the commercial version from our dealership. You can get NXT at Walmart.
I have been using it now for about 4 years. When I put NXT after the clay bar procedure, you hand just slides over the paint. As for carnuba, it is a nice product but it doesn't last as long as a polymer especially when a car gets abused by the sun.

Riptide

I've seen people recommend complete clay bar and wax treatments twice a year. IMO - this is overkill if the car is garaged and not a daily driver. Mine hardly ever sees rain and does not typically sit out in the sun. It's driven twice a week for about 60 miles. A clay bar once a year and wax once a year is fine.

What I do want to end up with eventually is a good porter cable tool and a nice set of pads. My car has tons of scratches that I'd like to try and buff/polish out. It's on the list for next year some time. Obsessivedetail.com has some good stuff btw. Good deals on MF towels. And an OK price on the porter cable tool.

2007HemiCuda

This is good stuff gents...going back to taking notes.

Cuda340

I have used Meguiars' NXT Tech Wax on both my cars with excellent results. Follow it up with Meguiars Ultimate Shine Detail Spray for a slick wet-look finish.

Also use Meguiars' new tire foam on your tires. It cleans and blackens without rubbing. A fantasic product.

Be careful, however, on what you put on the SRT's forged aluminum wheels because they are clear-coated. Treat them like your paint and just use non-abrasive wax on them.

2007HemiCuda

Seriously...what about ShamWow anybody use one?

Paladin06

I put a half a dozen in the trash last week. Does that help any?

BkChallenger09R/T

I used the Mothers kit with Clay Bar. It worked wonder's . They have a spray you put on the paint and use the bar with it wet. Got alot of stuff off the paint . That even rubbing compound wouldn't . That was on my 06 MX-5 GT . Haven't wax the Challenger or anything yet . Has just been too cold . Just keeping it washed up good and in the garage. I used Bike Bright on my clear coated wheel's on the Mazda. I used to use it on my Harley . It is good to clean the engine also. Spray it , Wash it off and then blow the water off with my leaf blower.

BkChallenger09R/T

I've used LEXOL Leather Conditioner for over 20 year's . And it has done a good job. I used it on the Leather seat's in the Challenger just this week. But I don't put it on the steering wheel. It may be ok . But I had a new Supra in 88 that the color came off the leather wrapped wheel. Was long after the 36,000 mile warranty . The Toyota zone rep. Looked at it . Said , I know you paid good money for the car . We will replace it . That wheel at the time cost over $700.00 with all the button's it had in the control's . But I had used it on many other steering wheel's with no problem. Think I got some chemical's on my hand's at work . Went out to lunch and got it on the leather . Then when I put the conditoner on the color came off . Lexol makes a cleaner for leather also.

05flhtcse

Thanks for the leather care advice. My 71 Challenger had black leather buckets but the rear seat was vinyl. Before this new Challenger, I've owned four Sebring convertibles and the last three had leather interiors. I've used a hodge-podge of leather care products and have not been impressed with any of them. The last Sebring, I used Armor All products. It was a dark blue leather and was OK but the blue on its steering wheel came off too. Must have something to do with the oils in our skin and probably not cleaning it often enough. I'm a little concerned about the white stitching on the new R/T seats. I'm afraid any product will darken the stitching. Has anybody noticed this happening?