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SRT Engineers" Chat Session Responses

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Old 08-05-2009 | 05:25 PM
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Post SRT Engineers" Chat Session Responses

Here are some of the engineers’ responses to tonight’s SRT Engineers’ Chat Session on caliberforms. As you can see, the session was dominated with Challenger-related questions:

Originally Posted by Rob440Magnum
What’s the best way to launch an automatic SRT8 Challenger for best 0 – 60 times? Should I leave in drive or shift with the autostick for the fastest time?

Put it in Drive and foot to the floor (stay in the grooves). That will get you the best times.

Originally Posted by 08ChallengerDad
I have a 2009 6 speed SRT8 Challenger. The car suffers from the "Key Fob Not Detected", "Damaged Key" syndrome in hot weather. When the car sits for a time in the sun, removing the Keyless Go button and manually inserting the fob into the socket becomes necessary to start the car. I live in upstate New York. If the problem is an annoyance for me, I can only imagine what it's like for folks in the SouthWest. Has a fix/TSB been issued/initiated for this problem?


I would recommend taking the vehicle to the dealership for diagnosis and repair.

Originally Posted by 08ChallengerDad
I have a 2009 6 speed SRT8 Challenger. The car has the factory option GoodYear F1 Supercar tires. It's an outstanding car in virtually every aspect. However, I am having a problem with severe wheelhop under hard acceleration, particularly from a standing start. I assume this condition can't be good for the suspension or driveline.
It doesn't matter what the ambient temperature is, or whether I have ESP on, partially off, or completely off - the wheelhop is still severe. I have not made any modifications to the suspension of the car, and run the F1's at the recommended pressures.
I know this is a common complaint from MANY of the 6 speed owners. Are you folks aware of this, working on a resolution, or have a cure already?

Power hop exists, to some extent, on all performance vehicles. Minimizing the amount of hop will maximize the vehicle's performance. This is usually accomplished by developing a vehicle specific launch/driving style.

Originally Posted by Rob440Magnum
If I install the Mopar CAI and the Mopar aftermarket exhaust on the Challenger SRT8, because the motor will breathe better do you think the stock 80mm throttle body is now the weak link and that the motor would benefit from a larger TB? If so what size would you recommend for peak performance?

Save your cash. In our experience, the throttle body is not the weak link at this level.

Originally Posted by Miamimike
SRT Team - I recently installed a Corsa "Cat Back" Exhaust on my 2008 Dodge Challenger SRT8 along with a cold air in-take. In order to get the full benefit of these upgrades, should I reflash the chip? If so, is there a system you would recommend? If I re-program the chip myself, is there any danger of hurting the engine?

Nope. There's no need to recalibrate for these upgrades.

Originally Posted by Rob440Magnum
What is a bone stock SRT8 Challenger six speed and automatic supposed to dyno at the rear wheels?

Because of the new and improved rear-end for the 2009 Challenger does that have higher hp & torque numbers at the rear wheels versus and 08 Challenger?
We don't usually dyno at the rear wheel, but I would expect to see about 5 or 6% drop through the driveline. Technically the 08 axle will be more efficient due to its smaller size, but the difference will not be measurable on the chassis dyno.

Originally Posted by Rob440Magnum
Any reason why my brakes would be squeaking on light braking on my 2008 SRT8 Challenger with the stock Brembo brakes? I have to say the brake dust generated from the Brembro brakes is very annoying and time consuming to keep clean. Why did you choose not to install ceramic pads as standard equipment to eliminate brake dust? Secondly, any reason why I should not install Hawk Ceramic Brake Pads, to nearly eliminate all that annoying brake dust on my 08 Challenger SRT8?

All performance brake systems will have certain conditions which will generate brake noise (temp, humidity, brake pressure). The hotter the brake pad the more resistant the system is to brake noise.... We can not recommend using ceramic pads, due to the reduction in overall preformance. We designed the system to meet our performance and minimize brake noise and dust.

Originally Posted by charger08srt
Why do the SRT 6.1 Stock Intake Air Boxes have a hole cut out in the bottom? Is it for performance reasons or just extra sound? Pic below for reference. I also noticed the Road and Track 5.7 Chargers have the same type of bottom air box but no hole is cut out of those.

The cut out was to help to provide a sound for the vehicle but it also helped reduce air restriction.

Originally Posted by MoparX
I own a 2009 Challenger SRT8, 6 speed. It is the best car I have ever owned in every way. And I've had quite a few. My question regards to the use of catch cans. Are they really worth it, for keeping the intake/engine clean. Its been suggested that the 6.1's get a little "more" oil into the intake past the PCV valve than really wanted and therefore possibly causing some detonation & causing the computer to retard the timming, therefore stealing some HP's. Is this BS, or is it worth the addition of a catch can?


The 6.1L engine can be expected to collect some oil residue in the intake manifold over time and this is heavily influenced by how hard the engine is used. The fact is that oil residue in the manifold is extremely hard to get "aerosol" such that it can be burned as part of the combustion process given the intake runners pull from the roof of the intake plenum and the residue is typically at the very bottom. Generally speaking, catch cans are more of a mental pacifier than anything and any positive performance impact is virtually impossible to quantify. In such a case, you really need to go with your gut, but we can find no overwhelming reason to recommend this modification.

Originally Posted by Rob440Magnum
I have 08 Challenger SRT8 with the 20" Eagle F1 tires. I was always told because of the extra weight in the front of the car versus the rear that you want 2-3 more pounds of tire pressure in the front tires. What front and rear tire pressure cold do you recommend for the best wear, comfort, and performance for everyday driving with the 20" tires?

32psi cold, all the way around.


Originally Posted by MrMischief
Another question came to me last night, hope it's ok that I'm asking two questions.
My 2007 Charger SRT8 with about 15,000 miles consumes about 1 quart of Mobil1 0W-40 every 3,000 miles. My 5 Star Dodge dealer continues to recommend putting in 8 quarts of Mobil1 0W-40 at oil change intervals rather then the owner manual's called for 7 quarts. The mechanics at the dealer have said there are a number of good reasons to do this and no reason not to. One of the reasons was to ensure that the oil level never drops below safe if the vehicle goes a bit over 3,000 miles before the change. So is this oil consumption normal, and is there any reason I would want to take the dealer's advice and use 8 quarts of oil rather then 7?

Wow. Hard to know where to start here. First and foremost, absolutely DO NOT overfill the engine with oil under any circumstances. The list of negatives are many, but the most concerning are as follows:

Oil Aeration: Our testing has shown that just one extra quart drastically increases the oil aeration level to the point of significantly reducing oiling efficiency, increasing oil temperature and increasing oil consumption. It will also ruin the oils shear stability in the process.

Fuel Economy: Fuel economy suffers considerably with extra oil volume due to internal windage (e.g. drag)

Contrary to your dealer's advice, there is absolutely NO good reason to run extra oil whatsoever.

Originally Posted by Dartman69
My question pertains to a problem I'm having with my '09 Challenger SRT8 6-speed. I am encountering a nasty grind/clashing when shifting from 4th to 5th gear above 4000 rpm. The closer to redline I get, the harsher the sensation. It does not matter how casually or aggressively I shift, the grind always occurs. Just today I took it to a local dealership to have the problem checked out. Oddly, I wasn't permitted to go on the test drive. However, after racking up 41 kilometers on my odometer and burning a 1/4 tank of gas, the mechanic/technician determined that the transmission shifts just fine and that I must be rushing my shifts and banging off the shift gate. When I asked where he test drove it, I was told that he "drove it all over town and didn't notice anything". ('cuz I'm sure he shifted from 4th to 5th above 4000 rpm in congested city traffic!). Anyhow, I've had 3 different friends of mine drive the car (all of which have been driving stick for about 10 years or so just like me) and they all encountered the same grind. I therefore conclude that I am not crazy nor an inept driver.

A 4-5 shift a 4 grand puts you at about 90mph. I agree that seem a bit fast for city traffic. My thoughts are you are shifting too early. The gage goes to 6200 for a reason. the 4th gear synchro sounds like it's hurt.

Originally Posted by Deuuuce
Has rev matching been considered on the automatic SRT-8s when downshifting? I thought that would be a cool little feature and eliminate the lurch that occurs otherwise. Could it be flashed into the trans?

Rev Matching has been considered, but we are unable to comment on future product.
The current SRT w/ A/T cannot be flashed to accomplish same.
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