Summary of Jan. 13 SRT Engineers Chat Session
01-14-2010, 04:45 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Summary of Jan. 13 SRT Engineers Chat Session
Originally Posted by gnj152
Question: what kind of HP will be the 6.4L 2011 Challenger.
Unfortunately, we can't talk about future product details like that.
Originally Posted by Cuda340
1. Is the MOPAR CAI good for 5 rear wheel hp and 7 ft/lbs. of torque on the Challenger
SRT?
2. Is there any advantage to removing the factory radiator airflow diverter from the
lower air box to allow more air to reach the CAI?
While we don't have any numbers specific to your application, the high flow Mopar intake is designed to minimize the intake restriction and increase horsepower. Just follow the installation instructions and enjoy.
Originally Posted by Cuda340
Thanks for answering my first question about the MOPAR CAI in my Challenger SRT, but you guys did not answer my second question, namely:
Is there any advantage to removing the factory radiator airflow diverter from the
lower air box to allow more air to reach the CAI?
Sure we did. Just follow the instructions and enjoy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuda340
Two weeks ago, I had the "driveability" reflash done to my 2009 Challenger SRT (auto). What improvements can I expect?
This reflash was to address some low speed driveability concerns. You should expect smoother transitions at lower speeds when you are on and off the pedal (i.e. fuel on -to- fuel shutoff transitions).
Originally Posted by srKEY
Do you guys have any tricks to keep the brakes from squeeling on a 07 GCSRT8 with 23K miles? I've heard the rotors glaze and there may be some braking techniques to get the glaze off. Any ideas?
With temperatures as cold as they are you want get your brakes hot to minimize brake noise... The harder you brake the less noise you will get.
Originally Posted by icemanthrilla
do u recomend using a catch can on the csrt??? some of us who have had them installed say they catch a fair amount of blow by while others say its very lil.
Vehicle and engine durability is done with NO catch can. There is no problem with using one provided it is properly installed in the PCV system. Depending on your drive cycle you will find varying levels of oil in the catch can. There will be no measureable performance improvement with the catch can.
Whatever is caught in the catch can SHOULD NOT be poured back into the engine, regardless of what videos may have been posted on the forums.
Originally Posted by Knuckles
Just wondering how this whole adaptives thing works?
Your vehicle adaptives are constantly learning...some more than others. By that I mean as you accumulate miles on your car, some adaptives will "re-learn" more quickly than others if you change your driving style. If you put any tune in your vehicle, your info is correct and you should start with a fresh adaptive learn to maximize the potential of the tune. Again they are correct and drive the car around like you normally do, perform a few WOT pulls when its warmed up and you should be good to go. I've never heard of the brake press after a battery pull to drain the adaptives...normally you can pull the batt negative connector and turn the key like your starting the car for a few seconds and that will drain the capacitors in the module and give you a fresh adaptive start. Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by lhcfh
I like many others with manual 6 speeds in the Challenger have experienced severe wheel hop after a few miles have been put on the car that did not exist when it was new. I fully realize why the wheel hop is happening on take off in first and I can manage it by feathering the clutch/acceleration but it is still quite a challenge to do so. My bigger concern is the amount of hop I get from 1st to 2nd. Is there anything that can be done to solve this issue in regards to aftermarket or other Mopar products? Second question, like others I have started noticing a whine from the rear end after getting wheel hop that is noticeable when decelerating from 50-60 mph. I have heard that some dealerships are getting responses from Chrysler that this is normal and not a concern.
Power-hop is, unfortunately, an unavoidable hazard in making big power with a manual transmission. From a design stand point, lowering the clamp load on the clutch would smooth that out, but the trade off is smoking the clutch after just a few launches. My recommendation is to keep working on your driving technique. It sounds like you have the handle of it in 1st. Remember, if you are power hopping the rear end you are not getting the best launch you can. And you're beating the crap out of the rear end. Could have something to do with the whine you are starting to hear. I would not worry about the axle gear wearing out, but if the pattern moved even slightly from the initial position set in the factory it will get noisy. If it's really driving you nuts you might consider taking it in, but if it's only there for a small speed range it's not an indication of wear out or pending doom like a constant growl noise would be.
Originally Posted by 1233user
I own a 2009 6-speed Challenger SRT, which like most of the 6-speed cars suffers from severe wheel-hop. I know this issue has been talked about in your other chat sessions, where the SRT engineers gave several different responses. What I would like to know is if you guys are working on a fix for this problem that will be available for all the people who already own these cars and are very unhappy about the wheel hop?
I think you will find power-hop is not only a complaint on the 6 speed Challenger, but any of its competitors in the class. In fact the Challenger is considerably better than its rivals on this. My best recommendation is to practice smooth launches modulating both the clutch and gas pedals. No, It's not easy. Yes, it takes practice. But that's half the fun of a manual transmission in my opinion. Most of all keep in mind that power hopping is not the fastest way to launch the car. Ease off and you will go faster.
Originally Posted by SRT09
Would a larger throttle body help my car? 09 SRT8 6 spd Challenger with a Vortech
Generally speaking, increases in throttle body diameter yield modest gains. An a supercharged application like you describe, I would expect any power increases to be minimal to none at all.
Originally Posted by bfreeman
Vehicle: 2008 jeep gc srt8 (8000 mi). Mods: bwoody CAI, sway bar links, ss brake lines, predator tuner, R1 drilled/slotted rotors, Hawk ceramo-metallic pads.
Problem: Terrible bake squeal, especially near the end of the stop. Have tried deglazing, reburnishing,even wheel weights on the R rear caliper. Nothing works.
A lot of time and effort goes into developing brake pad and rotor combinations that balance outright performance with minimal customer issues. Unfortunate side effects of high performance components are noise and brake dust. Your BooYah rotors and pads most likely do not have the noise countermeasures of the SRT components. If you are really committed to your aftermarket components, you could always try to chamfer the leading edge of the pads or add an aftermarket silencer shim between the pad and the caliper.
Originally Posted by SRT09
Would replacing the cats with a high flo replacments add much HP? How much?
It is possible that lower restriction cats could increase power but I have no way to estimate how much. Bear in mind that the HEMI engine actually responds better to a bit of backpressure than most people think. Very low backpressure exhaust systems regularly make LESS power on opposed-valve HEMI engines, particularly the SRT's.
Originally Posted by 2007srt8
Is Rod knock common issue with the 6.1? I have knock during cold starts and my dealer said it was the rods.
the knock goes away when it warms up...should I replace the short block?
I am not aware of any issues with rod knock in the 6.1. Your dealer should be able to diagnose this issue, or possibly they could place a call to the Chrysler Star Center to help you with the problem. I hope this helps!
Originally Posted by shorestyle031
should the power steering fluid be changed after a road course track day
If you are only going once in a great while, you shouldn't need to change the fluid. If you're going on a regular basis, you should change change the fluid... be sure to use MS10838.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Las Vegas
You can pull fuse # 11 for 30 secs on the 5.7 Hemi to reset the PCM, is there any fuse that can be pulled on the 6.1 to accomplish the same? (GC SRT8)
Same for the 6.1L - same vehicle.
Originally Posted by demonbydesign
My question is in regards to the SRT8 automatic...will swapping out the 3:06 for a 3.92 (for example) potentially hurt anything? I realize you may have used the 3:06 to strike a balance between gas mileage/performance. But I'm not knowledgeable enough to know what it may or may not hurt and/or improve as far as performance especially in a straight line drag race type situation. And will doing a swap of 3:06 for 3:92 potentially introduce the wheel hop issues of the 6-speed into the Automactic/NAG1? With the SRT challenger automatic and straight line drag race, in your experience can you suggest an optimal RPM range you might suggest I launch from to achieve the best 1/4 mile time? And what stock numbers have you experienced guys seen running the SRT Automatic Challengers through the 1/4 and 0-60?
Wheel hop won't likely be an issue with the change in axle ratio since the torque converter smoothes out the torque apply, but you do have a few hurtles to overcome. First, the trans needs to know what the axle ratio is to shift properly. I may have heard about some aftermarket products that allow you to program this, but I of course cannot recommend such actions. Going to 3.91 is a big step, and getting it to hook-up with all that ratio could be difficult and then you end up pedaling the launch and giving away all that you've gained. I'd look at the 3.73 or lower. Another option would be to go with the 175k torque converter offered by Mopar. This will give you a bunch more torque multiplication on launch and not require trans settings adjustments or effect your highway cruise rpm.
Originally Posted by icemanthrilla
Here’s some threads with pics of whats caught int he catch can...do the appearance of any of these fluids trouble u?
Moisture and oil do not mix well. The catch can collects the oil and any water vapor it was mixed with. When they settle out, you get the nasty sludge in the pictures.
I have a 2009 Challenger SRT8 6-speed. When I accelerate out of a corner I feel a shudder and it feels as though the power is down. As soon as I straighten the wheel out it goes away and you can feel the power pick back up. This happens in all three modes of the ESP (on, partial off, and disabled). It can be repeated in a parking lot by doing a circle, not too slow, and then pulling straight out of it. The dealer says that it is the computer retarding the power to protect parts. I wouldn't think think the ESP would do anything with it being disabled. Is this something I need to be worried about?
The ESP was my first guess, but you said it sill happens when disabled. So after that, I'd guess the tires are slipping. Can you have someone watch from outside the car when you do it.
How many miles are the stock spark plugs good for, realistically? I mean, at what mileage would you change them if it were your 6.1? What gap?
On any stock SRT Hemi, I would look for a plugs at about 100k per the service interval. As modifications increase, plug life can be expected to decrease somewhat. For bolt-on improvements, I would gap at .040 - .045". It's a little tougher on supercharged engines but start with a plug one heat range colder and gap about .035 -.040". As for change intervals with modifications, I can't really say.
Originally Posted by blown454nova
anything for post 123, or the other people who posted about the brake squeal, or are we just going to have to settle for another person telling us its "normal" for our cars to sound like a freight train.
Performance brake systems are more likely to have brake noise due to the aggressive content of the brake pads and the stiffer construction of the calipers. When it is cold or very humidity brake noise is more likely to occur. Another factor is amount of brake pressure you apply, the harder you brake, the hotter the brakes are, the less noise you will get.
__________________
Originally Posted by rayzazoo
Is there going to be a fix for the "Key FOB Not Detected" or "Damaged Key" Keyless Go issue for the 2010 lineup?
Do not know at this time.
Question: what kind of HP will be the 6.4L 2011 Challenger.
Unfortunately, we can't talk about future product details like that.
Originally Posted by Cuda340
1. Is the MOPAR CAI good for 5 rear wheel hp and 7 ft/lbs. of torque on the Challenger
SRT?
2. Is there any advantage to removing the factory radiator airflow diverter from the
lower air box to allow more air to reach the CAI?
While we don't have any numbers specific to your application, the high flow Mopar intake is designed to minimize the intake restriction and increase horsepower. Just follow the installation instructions and enjoy.
Originally Posted by Cuda340
Thanks for answering my first question about the MOPAR CAI in my Challenger SRT, but you guys did not answer my second question, namely:
Is there any advantage to removing the factory radiator airflow diverter from the
lower air box to allow more air to reach the CAI?
Sure we did. Just follow the instructions and enjoy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuda340
Two weeks ago, I had the "driveability" reflash done to my 2009 Challenger SRT (auto). What improvements can I expect?
This reflash was to address some low speed driveability concerns. You should expect smoother transitions at lower speeds when you are on and off the pedal (i.e. fuel on -to- fuel shutoff transitions).
Originally Posted by srKEY
Do you guys have any tricks to keep the brakes from squeeling on a 07 GCSRT8 with 23K miles? I've heard the rotors glaze and there may be some braking techniques to get the glaze off. Any ideas?
With temperatures as cold as they are you want get your brakes hot to minimize brake noise... The harder you brake the less noise you will get.
Originally Posted by icemanthrilla
do u recomend using a catch can on the csrt??? some of us who have had them installed say they catch a fair amount of blow by while others say its very lil.
Vehicle and engine durability is done with NO catch can. There is no problem with using one provided it is properly installed in the PCV system. Depending on your drive cycle you will find varying levels of oil in the catch can. There will be no measureable performance improvement with the catch can.
Whatever is caught in the catch can SHOULD NOT be poured back into the engine, regardless of what videos may have been posted on the forums.
Originally Posted by Knuckles
Just wondering how this whole adaptives thing works?
Your vehicle adaptives are constantly learning...some more than others. By that I mean as you accumulate miles on your car, some adaptives will "re-learn" more quickly than others if you change your driving style. If you put any tune in your vehicle, your info is correct and you should start with a fresh adaptive learn to maximize the potential of the tune. Again they are correct and drive the car around like you normally do, perform a few WOT pulls when its warmed up and you should be good to go. I've never heard of the brake press after a battery pull to drain the adaptives...normally you can pull the batt negative connector and turn the key like your starting the car for a few seconds and that will drain the capacitors in the module and give you a fresh adaptive start. Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by lhcfh
I like many others with manual 6 speeds in the Challenger have experienced severe wheel hop after a few miles have been put on the car that did not exist when it was new. I fully realize why the wheel hop is happening on take off in first and I can manage it by feathering the clutch/acceleration but it is still quite a challenge to do so. My bigger concern is the amount of hop I get from 1st to 2nd. Is there anything that can be done to solve this issue in regards to aftermarket or other Mopar products? Second question, like others I have started noticing a whine from the rear end after getting wheel hop that is noticeable when decelerating from 50-60 mph. I have heard that some dealerships are getting responses from Chrysler that this is normal and not a concern.
Power-hop is, unfortunately, an unavoidable hazard in making big power with a manual transmission. From a design stand point, lowering the clamp load on the clutch would smooth that out, but the trade off is smoking the clutch after just a few launches. My recommendation is to keep working on your driving technique. It sounds like you have the handle of it in 1st. Remember, if you are power hopping the rear end you are not getting the best launch you can. And you're beating the crap out of the rear end. Could have something to do with the whine you are starting to hear. I would not worry about the axle gear wearing out, but if the pattern moved even slightly from the initial position set in the factory it will get noisy. If it's really driving you nuts you might consider taking it in, but if it's only there for a small speed range it's not an indication of wear out or pending doom like a constant growl noise would be.
Originally Posted by 1233user
I own a 2009 6-speed Challenger SRT, which like most of the 6-speed cars suffers from severe wheel-hop. I know this issue has been talked about in your other chat sessions, where the SRT engineers gave several different responses. What I would like to know is if you guys are working on a fix for this problem that will be available for all the people who already own these cars and are very unhappy about the wheel hop?
I think you will find power-hop is not only a complaint on the 6 speed Challenger, but any of its competitors in the class. In fact the Challenger is considerably better than its rivals on this. My best recommendation is to practice smooth launches modulating both the clutch and gas pedals. No, It's not easy. Yes, it takes practice. But that's half the fun of a manual transmission in my opinion. Most of all keep in mind that power hopping is not the fastest way to launch the car. Ease off and you will go faster.
Originally Posted by SRT09
Would a larger throttle body help my car? 09 SRT8 6 spd Challenger with a Vortech
Generally speaking, increases in throttle body diameter yield modest gains. An a supercharged application like you describe, I would expect any power increases to be minimal to none at all.
Originally Posted by bfreeman
Vehicle: 2008 jeep gc srt8 (8000 mi). Mods: bwoody CAI, sway bar links, ss brake lines, predator tuner, R1 drilled/slotted rotors, Hawk ceramo-metallic pads.
Problem: Terrible bake squeal, especially near the end of the stop. Have tried deglazing, reburnishing,even wheel weights on the R rear caliper. Nothing works.
A lot of time and effort goes into developing brake pad and rotor combinations that balance outright performance with minimal customer issues. Unfortunate side effects of high performance components are noise and brake dust. Your BooYah rotors and pads most likely do not have the noise countermeasures of the SRT components. If you are really committed to your aftermarket components, you could always try to chamfer the leading edge of the pads or add an aftermarket silencer shim between the pad and the caliper.
Originally Posted by SRT09
Would replacing the cats with a high flo replacments add much HP? How much?
It is possible that lower restriction cats could increase power but I have no way to estimate how much. Bear in mind that the HEMI engine actually responds better to a bit of backpressure than most people think. Very low backpressure exhaust systems regularly make LESS power on opposed-valve HEMI engines, particularly the SRT's.
Originally Posted by 2007srt8
Is Rod knock common issue with the 6.1? I have knock during cold starts and my dealer said it was the rods.
the knock goes away when it warms up...should I replace the short block?
I am not aware of any issues with rod knock in the 6.1. Your dealer should be able to diagnose this issue, or possibly they could place a call to the Chrysler Star Center to help you with the problem. I hope this helps!
Originally Posted by shorestyle031
should the power steering fluid be changed after a road course track day
If you are only going once in a great while, you shouldn't need to change the fluid. If you're going on a regular basis, you should change change the fluid... be sure to use MS10838.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Las Vegas
You can pull fuse # 11 for 30 secs on the 5.7 Hemi to reset the PCM, is there any fuse that can be pulled on the 6.1 to accomplish the same? (GC SRT8)
Same for the 6.1L - same vehicle.
Originally Posted by demonbydesign
My question is in regards to the SRT8 automatic...will swapping out the 3:06 for a 3.92 (for example) potentially hurt anything? I realize you may have used the 3:06 to strike a balance between gas mileage/performance. But I'm not knowledgeable enough to know what it may or may not hurt and/or improve as far as performance especially in a straight line drag race type situation. And will doing a swap of 3:06 for 3:92 potentially introduce the wheel hop issues of the 6-speed into the Automactic/NAG1? With the SRT challenger automatic and straight line drag race, in your experience can you suggest an optimal RPM range you might suggest I launch from to achieve the best 1/4 mile time? And what stock numbers have you experienced guys seen running the SRT Automatic Challengers through the 1/4 and 0-60?
Wheel hop won't likely be an issue with the change in axle ratio since the torque converter smoothes out the torque apply, but you do have a few hurtles to overcome. First, the trans needs to know what the axle ratio is to shift properly. I may have heard about some aftermarket products that allow you to program this, but I of course cannot recommend such actions. Going to 3.91 is a big step, and getting it to hook-up with all that ratio could be difficult and then you end up pedaling the launch and giving away all that you've gained. I'd look at the 3.73 or lower. Another option would be to go with the 175k torque converter offered by Mopar. This will give you a bunch more torque multiplication on launch and not require trans settings adjustments or effect your highway cruise rpm.
Originally Posted by icemanthrilla
Here’s some threads with pics of whats caught int he catch can...do the appearance of any of these fluids trouble u?
Moisture and oil do not mix well. The catch can collects the oil and any water vapor it was mixed with. When they settle out, you get the nasty sludge in the pictures.
I have a 2009 Challenger SRT8 6-speed. When I accelerate out of a corner I feel a shudder and it feels as though the power is down. As soon as I straighten the wheel out it goes away and you can feel the power pick back up. This happens in all three modes of the ESP (on, partial off, and disabled). It can be repeated in a parking lot by doing a circle, not too slow, and then pulling straight out of it. The dealer says that it is the computer retarding the power to protect parts. I wouldn't think think the ESP would do anything with it being disabled. Is this something I need to be worried about?
The ESP was my first guess, but you said it sill happens when disabled. So after that, I'd guess the tires are slipping. Can you have someone watch from outside the car when you do it.
How many miles are the stock spark plugs good for, realistically? I mean, at what mileage would you change them if it were your 6.1? What gap?
On any stock SRT Hemi, I would look for a plugs at about 100k per the service interval. As modifications increase, plug life can be expected to decrease somewhat. For bolt-on improvements, I would gap at .040 - .045". It's a little tougher on supercharged engines but start with a plug one heat range colder and gap about .035 -.040". As for change intervals with modifications, I can't really say.
Originally Posted by blown454nova
anything for post 123, or the other people who posted about the brake squeal, or are we just going to have to settle for another person telling us its "normal" for our cars to sound like a freight train.
Performance brake systems are more likely to have brake noise due to the aggressive content of the brake pads and the stiffer construction of the calipers. When it is cold or very humidity brake noise is more likely to occur. Another factor is amount of brake pressure you apply, the harder you brake, the hotter the brakes are, the less noise you will get.
__________________
Originally Posted by rayzazoo
Is there going to be a fix for the "Key FOB Not Detected" or "Damaged Key" Keyless Go issue for the 2010 lineup?
Do not know at this time.
01-14-2010, 11:35 AM
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Thanks for posting. These always make an interesting read. I liked his reference to reprogramming the trans to shift at different points if changing the rear axle ratio: "I may have heard about some aftermarket products that allow you to program this, but I of course cannot recommend such actions"
01-14-2010, 02:57 PM
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I was watching it last night, but I did not participate because all of my questions are regarding future products and knew how they would respond. I will just have to be more patient.
__________________
For I know the plans I have for you," declares the LORD, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future. Then you will call upon me and come and pray to me, and I will listen to you. You will seek me and find me when you seek me with all your heart.
For I know the plans I have for you," declares the LORD, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future. Then you will call upon me and come and pray to me, and I will listen to you. You will seek me and find me when you seek me with all your heart.
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