Because you get more metal shavings from a new build/break-in, the oil should be changed at 500 miles the first time! I change my oil every 3000, I don't care how long they claim those expensive lubricants last, THEY STILL GET CONTAMINATED WITH DIRT AND FUEL AND WILL RUIN YOUR ENGINE! The more often you change your oil the better!

 

carbon we are open on Saturdays..if you want drive out...i take good care of you tooo..

 

Just wondering...can you do it yourself? I have always changed my own oil and filters. I only ask this because the dealership I bought it from had one up in the air on one of those revolving displays, so I looked and couldn't see the filter anywhere. In fact, I recall almost the entire undercarriage covered with panels, making it appear damn near impossible to get to the filter and drain pan.

Sorry...I JUST got the car and am unfamiliar with its layout. Any help is appreciated.

 

yes you can do your own oil change...you need to save your oil an filter receipts and make sure you use the right grade of oil and i would recommend you only use a factory filter.

 

I've read a few of your posts and I am assuming your work for a dealership, is that correct? I have a few questions: First, are you recommending saving receipts for warranty purposes? I am aware that you must use 5W-20 oil which is fine with me (hey...coming off a Corvette, I'm just grateful I don't have to use synthetic!), but I have always used Purolator PureONE oil filters which are generally regarded as being among the best on the market. Is there a reason that you are recommending using the factory filter?

Thanks!

 

I just wanted to bump this to the top to see if anyone can get me an answer as to whether or not it's ok to use an aftermarket oil filter and how to actually get the the filter on the car?

 

Dunno, but I went to my normal mechanic to get the oil change done and his parts supplier didn't seem to have the right stuff in stock when he called to do the job right and the oil was something like 8 bucks a quart and said I needed 7 of them.
Since challygirl's place is a bit far (plus, I just got off a 30 hour journey back from Chile) I made an apt at the local dealer for tomorrow. It's something like 48 bucks there they said on the phone.
Just go to the dealer I suggest till everyone's computers get updated with 2009 Chally part info.

 

There are, I think, 4 bolts that you need to remove from the plastic belly pan in order to remove that belly pan to gain access to both the oil filter and the oil pan drain plug. Drain oil from pan, remove filter, replace filter, replace pan drain bolt, refill with fresh oil, replace belly pan and the 4 retaining nuts.

I skipped the basic other precautions I take - like flushing at least 1/2 quart of fresh oil through the engine before replacing the drain plug, checking to make sure the filter gasket comes off with the old filter, lubing the new filter gasket with fresh oil to make it easier to remove as well as seal better, pre-filling the new filter at least partially (not so much that it drips out when installing it), pre-warming the new oil if it is cold outside, start the car and check for leaks before replacing the belly pan, etc...

By the way, the factory installed filter is a bear to get off. I think the factory skips the step where you lube the filter gasket with oil before tightening it down.

 

8 bucks a quart??? Are you using synthetic? I went to Wal-Mart, picked up a few jugs of Castrol GTX 5W-20 ($15.00 for a 5 quart jug), a few Purolator PureONE filters and I'm ready to change the oil out. I'll take it to the dealer for the first one because they're gonna comp me on it, but afterwards I'll do it on my own.

MOT250: Thanks for the info about removing the belly pan!

 

The Hemi 5.7 hold 7 quarts when changing the filter.